Chimi Lhakhang: Bhutan’s Fertility Temple

A History Steeped in Legend

Founded in 1499 by Ngawang Chogyal, the 14th abbot of Ralung Monastery, Chimi Lhakhang’s true significance lies in its connection to the enigmatic Drukpa Kunley. This 15th-century monk, often referred to as the “Divine Madman” for his unconventional approach to Buddhism, is believed to have blessed the site and built a chorten there. Local legend has it that Kunley subdued a powerful demon at Dochu La, trapping it in a rock near the chorten.

A Temple of Unconventional Blessings

Chimi Lhakhang is renowned for its phallic symbolism, a unique characteristic introduced by Drukpa Kunley. The monastery houses the original wooden phallus brought from Tibet by the saint himself. This symbol, often depicted in paintings and carvings throughout Bhutan, is believed to ward off evil and promote fertility.

Pilgrims, particularly women seeking blessings for children, flock to Chimi Lhakhang. A distinctive ritual involves the presiding lama striking the heads of visitors with a wooden phallus, believed to bestow fertility. Another tradition involves selecting a bamboo slip from the altar, inscribed with a name for a future child.

A Glimpse into the Monastery

The monastery itself is a modest structure with a golden spire and walls adorned with images of saints. Inside, the prayer hall houses tantric artifacts, including thangkas, bells, and drums. The central figure is a reclining statue of Drukpa Kunley, accompanied by a ceramic statue of his dog, Sachi.

Surrounded by picturesque rice and mustard fields, Chimi Lhakhang offers a serene atmosphere. The journey to the monastery is an experience in itself, with prayer flags lining the path and the village of Sopsokha adorned with phallic symbols.

Beyond the Fertility Symbolism

While Chimi Lhakhang is primarily associated with fertility, it also holds deep spiritual significance for Bhutanese people. The monastery’s history, architecture, and the life of Drukpa Kunley offer a rich tapestry of cultural